Monty wrote: “If you live in the south of the UK a lot of pruning can be done in February, but if you live further north or don’t have the time it may be completely fine by March Always use sharp tools for pruning. Not only does it make life a lot easier but it also makes for a cleaner cut and therefore less damage to the plant. Sharper tools are also much safer.
“Always use a tool that is operating within its capacity, so never stress.
“Use loopers for very thick stems to cut easily with secateurs and shop saws, Japanese ones are fantastic for anything that stresses loopers.”
Monti also recommends never painting over pruning wounds as this seals potential disease. Instead, gardeners must leave them to deteriorate naturally.
Gardening Pro said: “Always make some cuts. Don’t prune haphazardly but make your cut just above a bud or a leaf or some other stem joint.
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When it comes to true climbers, they have large flowers from early summer to autumn.
The horticulturist explained: “These include New Dawn, Albertine and Dorothy Perkins.
“These should be pruned in autumn or winter, the latter trying to maintain a framework of trained tall stems from which branches are breaking.
“These lateral branches will carry flowers on new growth in spring. Ideally, a third of the plant is removed each year, the oldest woody stem, so that it can continually renew itself.
5. Climbing Roses – Rambler
Ramblers have clusters of small flowers just once, in the middle of summer, according to Monty.
They require little pruning and should be trained and pruned soon after flowering.
This is because the flowers are mostly borne on stems grown in late summer.